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Investing BasicsHow-to

Before you invest: a step-by-step checklist for beginners

A step-by-step checklist to work through before your first investment: budget, emergency fund, high-interest debt, goals, risk, fees and background checks.

A clipboard holding a handwritten list on a wooden table
“Clipboard on a table with steps listed on it” by RyanT27 — CC0 1.0 (edited: cropped, recolored)

Quick answer

Before investing, know your income, spending and net worth; build an emergency fund; pay down high-interest debt; set goals with time frames; decide how much loss you can tolerate; understand the product and its fees; and check the seller's background on FINRA BrokerCheck or Investor.gov.

Key points

  • Start with a clear picture of what you own, what you owe and where your money goes each month.
  • Keep an emergency fund in insured savings so a surprise bill never forces you to sell investments at a bad time.
  • Paying off credit card debt that charges 18% or more is hard for any investment to beat.
  • Every investment should be tied to a goal and a time frame, because that decides how much risk the money can take.
  • Check fees and check the person: FINRA BrokerCheck and Investor.gov let you look up investment professionals for free.

What should be in place before your first investment?#

Investing is the last step of a sequence, not the first. The SEC's guidance for new investors puts an emergency fund and paying down credit card debt right alongside its advice on funds[1]. The checklist below follows that order. Work through it once, then revisit it whenever your situation changes.

  1. Map your finances

    List what you own and what you owe, and track a month of income and spending.

  2. Build an emergency fund

    Keep a cushion in an insured savings account before putting money at risk.

  3. Pay down high-interest debt

    Credit card balances charging high rates usually come before investing.

  4. Write down goals and dates

    Name each goal and how many years away it is.

  5. Decide how much risk you can take

    Think about how you would react to a 20% fall in a bad year.

  6. Understand the product and its costs

    Be able to explain how it makes money, how it can lose money and what it costs each year.

  7. Check who is selling it

    Look up the firm or professional on FINRA BrokerCheck or Investor.gov.

  8. Watch for red flags

    Walk away from promises of high returns with little or no risk.

How do you get a clear picture of your finances?#

Investor.gov's first step is to take an honest look at your entire financial situation: what you own and what you owe[2]. List your assets (cash, savings, retirement accounts, a car) and your liabilities (credit cards, student loans, car loans). Subtract the liabilities from the assets and you have your net worth[2].

Next, track income and spending. The SEC suggests writing down what you and your family earn and spend each month, with a category for savings and investing[2]. If there is nothing left over, the first job is to cut spending, not to pick investments. Many people build the habit by paying themselves first, with an automatic transfer on payday[2].

How big should your emergency fund be before you invest?#

An emergency fund is money set aside for surprises: a job loss, a car repair, a medical bill. The SEC suggests starting one in a savings account at a bank or credit union, with an automatic deposit each pay period[1]. Its roadmap notes that some people keep up to six months of their income in savings so it will be there when they need it[3].

The reason is practical. Investments can fall at exactly the wrong moment. Without a cushion, an emergency could force you to sell after a drop and lock in the loss. In the U.S., deposits at an FDIC-insured bank are covered up to $250,000 per depositor, per bank, per ownership category[4]; rules differ by country.

Worked example

Worked example: sizing and building an emergency fund

Someone's essential monthly costs (rent, food, transport, insurance, minimum debt payments) come to $2,500. A three-month cushion is $7,500 and a six-month cushion is $15,000. Saving $250 a month, the three-month target takes 30 months to reach, so some people choose to start investing small amounts once a first layer is in place rather than waiting for the full figure.

CushionMonths of $2,500 costsTarget amountMonths to reach at $250/month
Three months3$7,50030
Six months6$15,00060

Figures computed in code from the stated inputs; rounded to the nearest cent or tenth.

Should you pay off debt before you start investing?#

Usually, for expensive debt. The SEC's roadmap points out that most credit cards charge high interest rates, as much as 18 percent or more, if you don't pay off the balance each month, and that few investment strategies pay off as well as, or with less risk than, paying off all high interest debt[3]. Investor.gov says the same thing more bluntly: no investment will give you guaranteed returns to outweigh the high interest rate on a credit card[5].

One year on a $3,000 balance: card interest vs a hypothetical investment return
What happens to $3,000RateDollar effect over a year
Credit card balance left unpaid (simple)18% a year−$540.00
Same card, interest compounded monthly18% APR−$586.85
Invested instead, if it earned5% (hypothetical)+$150.00
Invested instead, if it earned7% (hypothetical)+$210.00

Calculated in code. Card interest is close to certain while it is owed; the investment returns are not guaranteed and could be negative.

Low-rate debt, such as a fixed-rate mortgage, is a different decision, and people reasonably handle it in different ways. The point is to compare the certain cost of the debt with the uncertain return of the investment.

How do you set goals and decide how much risk to take?#

Investor.gov suggests listing your most important goals first and deciding how many years you have to meet each one, because you need an option that fits that time frame[6]. The SEC calls this your time horizon: the expected number of months, years or decades you will be investing for a goal[7].

Then think about risk tolerance. Investor.gov frames it as whether you will be able to sleep at night if you buy an investment where you could lose your principal[8]. A house deposit needed in two years and a retirement fund needed in 35 years should not be invested the same way. Read risk and return explained and risk tolerance and time horizon before choosing a mix.

How do you check the investment and the person selling it?#

Before buying, you should be able to say in plain words how the investment makes money, how it could lose money and what it costs. The SEC warns that it can be costly to ignore the fees for buying, owning and selling an investment[9]. Ask directly how the professional gets paid; the SEC suggests that question and points to the firm's Form CRS relationship summary as a starting point[10]. Our note on how investment fees affect returns shows what a 1% yearly fee does over 20 years.

Then check the person. The SEC says checking the background of an investment professional is easy and free[9]. FINRA's BrokerCheck is a free tool for researching brokers, brokerage firms and investment adviser firms; its reports include recent employment history, registrations and licenses, and a disclosure section covering customer disputes and disciplinary events[11]. The SEC also suggests looking up any professional on Investor.gov[1].

Checklist summary: done when…
ItemDone whenWhere to check
Finances mappedYou know your net worth and monthly surplusYour statements and a budget
Emergency fundA cushion sits in insured savingsYour bank's FDIC status
Expensive debtNo card balances carried month to monthCard statements
GoalsEach goal has an amount and a yearYour written plan
RiskYou know the fall you could sit throughInvestor.gov risk tolerance guide
Product and feesYou can explain it and its yearly costProspectus fee table, Form CRS
ProfessionalRegistration and record checkedFINRA BrokerCheck, Investor.gov

What mistakes do beginners make?#

  1. Investing the emergency fund

    Money for emergencies needs to be there on a bad day for markets. Keep it in insured savings, separate from long-term investments.

  2. Investing while carrying card debt

    A balance charging 18% or more costs more, with more certainty, than most investments can be expected to earn. Clear it first where you can.

  3. Skipping the background check

    Looking up a professional on BrokerCheck takes minutes and is free. Do it before the first meeting, not after a problem.

  4. Buying because of urgency

    Pressure to decide today is a sales tactic. A sound investment will still be available after you have read the documents and checked the seller.

What else do beginners ask?#

Do I need a full six-month emergency fund before investing anything?

Not necessarily. The SEC notes that some people keep up to six months of income in savings[3], but some people build the fund and start investing small amounts at the same time once a first cushion is in place. What matters is that emergencies will not force you to sell investments.

What counts as high-interest debt?

Credit cards are the clearest case: the SEC notes many charge 18 percent or more if the balance is not paid in full[3]. Debt at rates well above what investments might reasonably earn is usually worth paying down first.

How do I check whether a financial adviser is legitimate?

Search their name and firm on FINRA BrokerCheck, which shows registrations, licenses and disclosures such as customer disputes[11], and on Investor.gov. If you cannot find them, ask why before handing over money.

Is there a minimum amount needed to start?

No single minimum applies; it depends on the account and product. Small amounts are fine to start with, as long as the fees are low relative to the balance.

What is the bottom line?#

A good first investment rests on unglamorous groundwork: a budget, an emergency fund, no expensive debt, written goals and an honest view of the risk you can live with. After that, the checks take minutes: understand the product, find its yearly cost and look up the person selling it. None of this guarantees a good outcome, but skipping it makes a bad one much more likely.

Sources

Numbers in brackets in the text point here. Grade A = primary source (regulator, statistics agency, law or official document).

  1. 1
  2. 2
    Figure Out Your FinancesU.S. SEC — Investor.gov (n.d.) · Grade A
  3. 3
    Saving and Investing: A Roadmap to Your Financial Security Through Saving and Investing (PDF)U.S. SEC Office of Investor Education and Advocacy — Investor.gov (n.d.) · Grade A
  4. 4
    Deposit InsuranceFDIC (n.d.) · Grade A
  5. 5
    Build Wealth Over Time Through Saving and InvestingU.S. SEC — Investor.gov (n.d.) · Grade A
  6. 6
    Define Your GoalsU.S. SEC — Investor.gov (n.d.) · Grade A
  7. 7
  8. 8
    Gauge Your Risk ToleranceU.S. SEC — Investor.gov (n.d.) · Grade A
  9. 9
    Investor Bulletin: Ten Things You Should Know About InvestingU.S. SEC — Investor.gov (n.d.) · Grade A
  10. 10
  11. 11
    About BrokerCheckFINRA (n.d.) · Grade A

How we checked this note

Every number, date and rule above links to its source. This note cites 11 sources, 11 of them primary (Grade A). Worked examples were calculated in code, and a second editor compared each figure with its source before publishing. Spotted an error? Tell us — corrections are listed on the note. Read our editorial policy.